Sleeper Bus to Luang Prabang: A 30-hour Misadventure

[Day 3-5] After two days in Vietnam, we were headed to the second leg and most awaited part of our backpacking adventure- Luang Prabang. 

The only thing standing between us and the gem of our trip is a 30-hour sleeper bus ride.  

Prior to the trip, I’ve read mixed reviews of the sleeper bus from Hanoi to Luang Prabang. Some say it was a breeze. Some say it was a “horror bus ride from hell”. I wondered, what with about a thousand tourists who’ve taken that bus ride, why can’t we find a single decent, coherent itinerary for that route? 

Well, because there ain’t one. 

Sharing what I jotted down on my phone for journaling purposes during the ride. And in any eventuality that the bus crashes and we die and someone finds my phone, at least they'd know I had crackers for my last meal. 



Around 4pm: Got picked up at the hotel by some douche who practically yelled at us, made us run after him in his motorbike. Left us and asked to wait at some sidewalk. Apparently, he’s picking up a bunch more people that’s why he’s in such a hurry. 

5:15pm Van that would take us to the bus station arrives. Packed 19 people (excluding driver) in a 12-seater vehicle. Made friends with awesome travelers. 

Our home for the next 28 hours. #rideatyourownrisk

6pm Van drops us all off along the highway. Waited 10-15 minutes until someone led us to the ticket stations. Nobody speaks English. Waited in the parking lot. Cold. Agency trouble. Crazy confusion ‘cause someone’s travel agency didn’t pay the bus company.

8pm After two hours that seemed like forever, finally boarded. Bus not full. Got the back bunk to ourselves. Bunk so small you can’t sit straight.  

9pm Stopover. Dirty comfort rooms. Handed out blankets. One for every two persons. Imagine if you’re seated next to stranger. Eeek. 

9:15pm Bus trouble of some sort in Ninh Binh, province south of Hanoi. Was too dizzy and shit scared to read or listen to music. Slept, slept, slept.   

7am Woke up. Now sharing a bunk with two Vietnamese. Bus now full. 

9:30am Naknam border. Shitty toilet. Literally. No one telling us what to do. Took long for other tourist to get their Visa’s ‘cause they didn’t enough dollars. Ended up paying in six different currencies. Hungry and dirty. 

1030am Left the Laos border. Told we’d reach LP by 11pm. 

12nn Into the trip, fog started to clear out a bit. It’s true, site going to LP is beautiful. Beautiful. Hills, hills, hills. Beautiful wooden houses. Wanted to read but getting dizzy. Living off crackers since last night.  

3pm stopover in some Laos town. Finally, real food!!! No idea what time we’d get to LP. Great view of Laos. Even better with the sun setting on my side of the bus. Dry grasslands after rolling plains, wooden farmhouses. Lined with what look like pines trees. Backdrop of thick green mountains. Similar to the Philippines, only drier. 

7pm Woke up. Dark. Running out of positions to fit ourselves in the tiny bunk.

8pm Vang Vieng guys got off. Lucky bastards. After 1km, stopover in the middle of mountain nowhere. Freezing cold. Dead dark. Driver tells us it’s 4 more hours to LP. Means we arrive at midnight. I wonder where we’ll spend the night (??). 

12mn Finally, Luang Parabang!!!:)  Thank you Lord we arrived safely. Everything’s closed. It’s friggin ghost town. Don’t know where to go. Rented a tuktuk with five other tourists who’re as lost as we are. Driver dropped us on the supposed town center. Not a soul in sight. Walked, walked, walked. Finally found an open guest house called Phousi.

1am Sitting on the curb along the Mekong. Place is dead quiet. Listening to gekkos while drinking warm beer left in our packs. Guest house was closing so we transferred to the balcony. Overlooking the sleeping streets and still, dark river. One of our newfound traveller friend rolled a joint and we were smoking Hanoi stash recalling our 30-hour ride of horror in between swigs and cigarettes. 

We are in Luang Prabang. And everything is perfect. 





Was the bus ride worth it? Read about our Luang Prabang trip and what makes it totally amazing, here. :)


*This post is part of my Indochina2014 series (which I haven't finished four months after the trip haha).  Read about our initiation to Vietnam winter here, and DIY Hanoi nights here. :)